Gasoline Car Catalytic Converter 101mm

Ceramic and metal substrates are the two primary carrier materials used in catalytic converters. Here is a detailed comparison:

Summary: Ceramic substrates are cost-effective and perform well at low space velocities, but are brittle and heavier. Metal substrates offer superior durability, faster warm-up, lower back pressure, and greater design flexibility, though at a higher cost. The choice depends on your specific application requirements.

Both ceramic and metal catalysts serve the same fundamental purpose — converting harmful exhaust gases (CO, HC, NOx) into harmless substances through catalytic reactions. However, they differ significantly in performance characteristics:

Key Takeaways:

• Ceramic catalysts excel at low space velocities (e.g., idle/low-load conditions) and offer excellent HC conversion. They are more cost-effective for high-volume production.
• Metal catalysts outperform at high space velocities (e.g., high-speed driving) due to larger surface area and better mass transfer characteristics. They warm up faster, resist thermal shock better, and offer greater durability, but come at a higher cost.

A three-way catalytic converter (TWC) simultaneously converts three primary harmful exhaust pollutants into less harmful substances through oxidation and reduction reactions:

• Carbon Monoxide (CO) → oxidized into Carbon Dioxide (CO₂)
• Unburned Hydrocarbons (HC) → oxidized into Carbon Dioxide (CO₂) and Water (H₂O)
• Nitrogen Oxides (NOx) → reduced into Nitrogen (N₂) and Oxygen (O₂)

The substrate (ceramic or metal) is coated with a "washcoat" containing precious metal catalysts (platinum, palladium, rhodium). As exhaust gases pass through the honeycomb channels at high temperature (around 300°C), these metals catalyze the chemical reactions that convert approximately 98% of harmful emissions into harmless gases. This process is essential for meeting global emissions standards and protecting air quality.

Yes. Our metal and ceramic catalytic converter substrates are designed to comply with Euro 3, Euro 4, Euro 5, and Euro 6 emissions standards. When properly installed on a vehicle that is otherwise in good mechanical condition, our substrates support the vehicle's ability to meet the emissions limits for which it was originally certified. Euro 3 was introduced in 2000, with each subsequent standard imposing stricter limits — our substrates are engineered to meet the requirements across this range.

Note: Emissions compliance depends on the complete vehicle system, not just the catalytic converter. Proper engine tuning, oxygen sensor function, and overall engine health are also critical factors.

Our warranty policy differs by product type:

• Ceramic Muffler Cores — No warranty provided. These are mechanical components subject to wear and external factors.
• Catalytic Converter Substrates (Ceramic or Metal) — Covered by a 2‑year / 50,000 km (approximately 31,000 miles) warranty against manufacturing defects. This warranty covers the substrate structure and catalytic coating integrity under normal use conditions.

The warranty does not cover damage caused by improper installation, engine misfire, use of leaded fuel, physical impact damage, or contamination from oil/coolant. Please retain your purchase receipt and installation records for warranty claims.

Product: Universal Metal Catalytic Converter – 400 CPSI, Total Length 250mm

This universal metal catalytic converter is designed for weld‑on installation. Professional installation by a qualified exhaust technician is strongly recommended. Follow these step‑by‑step guidelines:

⚠️ Before You Begin:

• Ensure the vehicle is parked on a level surface and securely supported.
• Allow the exhaust system to cool completely before starting work.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts.
• Spray mounting bolts with penetrating oil a few hours ahead to ease removal.
• Refer to your vehicle's official service manual for detailed, model‑specific procedures.

Step 1: Remove the Old Catalytic Converter

1. Locate the existing catalytic converter in the exhaust system.
2. Remove any heat shields or brackets that may be in the way.
3. Disconnect the oxygen sensors (O₂ sensors) from the old converter. Take care not to damage the sensor wiring.
4. Unbolt the flanged connections at both ends of the converter. If the bolts are seized, apply additional penetrating oil and allow it to soak.
5. Carefully remove the old catalytic converter assembly from the vehicle.

Step 2: Prepare the Exhaust Pipes

1. Use a wire brush or sandpaper to thoroughly clean any rust, carbon deposits, or old gasket material from the exposed exhaust pipe ends and flanges.
2. Measure and mark the cutting points on the exhaust pipes to match the new converter's dimensions.
3. Cut the pipes as needed using an appropriate cutting tool (e.g., reciprocating saw or exhaust pipe cutter).
4. Deburr the cut edges to ensure a clean, smooth surface for welding.

Step 3: Position the New Converter

1. Position the new universal metal catalytic converter in place.
2. Ensure the converter is oriented correctly — check for any flow direction arrows marked on the unit.
3. Confirm that the converter is properly aligned with the exhaust system and that all hanger brackets align with the vehicle's mounting points.
4. Use jack stands to support the converter at the correct height during fitting.

Step 4: Weld the Converter in Place

1. Tack weld the converter at multiple points to secure its position before final welding.
2. Perform full welds around the entire circumference of both the inlet and outlet connections.
3. Use appropriate welding techniques and filler material (stainless steel wire) to prevent corrosion.
4. Allow the welds to cool slowly to prevent warping or stress fractures.
5. If using clamps instead of welding, ensure all clamps are tightened to the manufacturer's torque specifications.

Step 5: Reinstall Components and Test

1. Reinstall any heat shields or brackets that were removed.
2. Reconnect the oxygen sensors to the new converter. Ensure the sensors are properly seated and the wiring is secure.
3. Check that all hanger rods are centered in the isolators.
4. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
5. Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks around all welded and bolted connections.
6. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature and verify that the check engine light remains off.
7. Take a short test drive to confirm proper function and listen for any unusual noises.

This is a complete shell-type ceramic catalytic converter (not just an internal substrate core). It comes as a fully assembled unit with the ceramic honeycomb substrate already encapsulated inside a metal shell, ready for direct bolt-on or weld-on installation. Professional installation by a qualified exhaust technician is strongly recommended. Follow these step‑by‑step guidelines:

⚠️ Before You Begin:

• Ensure the vehicle is parked on a level surface and securely supported with jack stands.
• Allow the exhaust system to cool completely before starting work — catalytic converters operate at extremely high temperatures.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts and reset the ECU after installation.
• Spray all mounting bolts and flange nuts with penetrating oil a few hours ahead to ease removal.
• Refer to your vehicle's official service manual for detailed, model‑specific procedures.
• Verify compatibility: Confirm that the converter's dimensions (inlet/outlet diameter, overall length, flange orientation) match your vehicle's exhaust system.

Step 1: Locate and Access the Old Converter

1. Raise the vehicle and secure it on jack stands. Allow sufficient working space under the chassis.
2. Locate the existing catalytic converter in the exhaust system — typically between the exhaust manifold and the muffler.
3. Remove any heat shields, underbody covers, or brackets that may obstruct access to the converter.

Step 2: Remove Oxygen Sensors (O₂ Sensors)

1. Carefully disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the upstream and downstream oxygen sensors.
2. Use an O₂ sensor socket or a 22mm wrench to unscrew the sensors from the old converter.
3. Important: Handle the sensors with care — do not damage the sensor tips or wiring. If the sensors are seized, apply penetrating oil and allow it to soak.
4. Inspect the sensors for damage or carbon buildup. Consider replacing them if they show signs of wear.

Step 3: Remove the Old Catalytic Converter

1. Unbolt the flange connections at both the inlet (engine side) and outlet (exhaust side) ends of the converter.
2. If the exhaust system uses a clamped connection, loosen the clamp bolts and separate the pipes.
3. For weld‑on units, carefully cut the pipes at the designated points using a reciprocating saw or exhaust pipe cutter.
4. Support the converter with one hand while removing the last bolts to prevent it from falling.
5. Carefully lower and remove the old catalytic converter assembly from the vehicle.

Step 4: Prepare the Exhaust Pipes for Installation

1. Use a wire brush or sandpaper to thoroughly clean any rust, carbon deposits, or old gasket material from the exhaust pipe flanges and mating surfaces.
2. If the pipes were cut, deburr the cut edges to ensure a clean, smooth surface for welding or clamping.
3. Check that the pipe ends are round and free of distortion. Use an exhaust pipe expander if needed to restore proper shape.
4. Install new gaskets on both the inlet and outlet flanges — never reuse old gaskets.

Step 5: Position and Install the New Converter

1. Position the new shell-type ceramic catalytic converter in place under the vehicle.
2. Check flow direction: Ensure the converter is oriented correctly — look for the flow direction arrow marked on the shell. The arrow should point toward the rear of the vehicle (exhaust outlet).
3. Align the inlet flange with the exhaust pipe coming from the engine, and the outlet flange with the downstream exhaust pipe.
4. Confirm that all hanger brackets and mounting points align with the vehicle's existing exhaust hangers.
5. Use a floor jack or transmission jack to support the converter at the correct height during fitting.

Step 6: Secure the Connections

1. For bolt‑on/flanged converters:
   • Insert new bolts and nuts (use high‑temperature anti‑seize compound on the threads).
   • Tighten the flange bolts evenly in a criss‑cross pattern to the manufacturer's torque specifications.
   • Do not overtighten — excessive torque can warp the flanges and cause exhaust leaks.
2. For weld‑on converters:
   • Tack weld the converter at multiple points (top, bottom, sides) to secure its position before final welding.
   • Perform full welds around the entire circumference of both the inlet and outlet connections.
   • Use appropriate welding techniques and filler material (stainless steel wire for stainless exhausts).
   • Allow the welds to cool slowly to prevent warping or stress fractures.
3. For clamped connections:
   • Slide the clamp over the joint and position it evenly.
   • Tighten the clamp bolts to the manufacturer's torque specifications.

Step 7: Reinstall Oxygen Sensors

1. Apply a small amount of anti‑seize compound to the sensor threads (avoid getting any on the sensor tip).
2. Screw the upstream and downstream O₂ sensors into their respective bungs on the new converter.
3. Tighten to the specified torque (typically 30–45 Nm). Do not overtighten.
4. Reconnect the sensor wiring harnesses securely.
5. Route the wiring away from hot exhaust components and moving parts.

Step 8: Reinstall Heat Shields and Final Checks

1. Reinstall any heat shields, underbody covers, or brackets that were removed.
2. Check that all hanger rods are properly seated in the rubber isolators.
3. Verify that there is adequate clearance between the converter and any surrounding components (fuel lines, brake lines, wiring, body panels).
4. Double‑check that all bolts, nuts, and clamps are tightened to specification.

Step 9: Reconnect Battery and Test Operation

1. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Start the engine and allow it to idle.
3. Check for exhaust leaks: Listen for hissing sounds and feel around all connections (flanges, welds, clamps, sensor bungs) for escaping exhaust gases. Use a soapy water spray — bubbles indicate a leak.
4. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the catalytic converter needs to reach light‑off temperature, typically around 300°C, to function properly).
5. Verify that the check engine light remains off. If it illuminates, use an OBD‑II scanner to read the diagnostic trouble codes.
6. Take a short test drive (10–15 minutes) to confirm proper function. Listen for any unusual noises or vibrations.
7. After the test drive, re‑check all connections for leaks while the system is hot.

Our shipping and delivery times depend on stock availability:

• If we have stock: We ship within 1–3 business days. Delivery typically takes 12–15 days (including customs clearance and duties).
• If we are out of stock: Production and handling take 15–20 business days, then delivery takes approximately 12–15 days (including customs clearance and duties).

All shipments are sent DDP (Delivered Duty Paid) – this means that all customs clearance fees, import duties, and taxes are already included in the total price you pay. You will not be charged any extra fees upon delivery.

If you need faster delivery, please contact us to arrange expedited shipping via DHL, UPS, or FEDEX (additional charges apply).

We will provide you with a tracking number as soon as your order is dispatched.

You can reach our team directly via WhatsApp or email. We are happy to assist with any questions about products, sizing, orders, or technical support.

We typically respond within 24 hours (Monday–Saturday). Please include your order number or vehicle details for faster assistance.

Our company headquarters is located at:

Building C, Zhongguan Innovation Center, Dongcheng 2nd Road, Pujiang Town, Minhang District, Shanghai, China

We welcome business visits by appointment. Please contact us in advance to arrange a suitable time.